About Aichmo Knives
How I Got Started
I have been fascinated with knives since my father bought me my first knife; a little flea market Swiss army knife when I was around age 10 or so. I was hooked and have been collecting and using knives ever since.
In my early 20's, I bought a knife from Jimmy Fikes. Everything I thought I knew about knives and what a knife was capable of and supposed to do was changed. I learned what sharpness really means. I was friends with Jimmy Fikes for over 20 years and studied his method of knife making for about 3 years. I have been making and selling my own knives since.
How My Knives Are Crafted
A knife is a tool that cuts - that is the purpose of a knife. What it will cut and how well it will cut is the most important function. Here’s why my knives have superior cutting capability:
• I make my knives using differentially heat treated 1095 carbon steel and a combination of forging and stock removal.
• I usually use 1/4" thick stock, and have done some in 3/16" thick.
• I make mostly chisel ground blades.
• I have recently been making some designs out of 5/32" thick stock and slack-belt/convex grinding them from both sides.
5 Tests to Guarantee Sharpness and Quality
I personally test all of my knives after the hardening process. To insure quality knives, these tests check for sharpness, edge holding, impact resistance, flexibility, and point strength among other attributes. I have videos of the tests under the video tab of this site.
1) The first test is to strike the spine on a 2" diameter brass rod to verify there are no cracks or flaws.
2) In the second test, I clamp 2" from the point in a vise and flex the blade to see if it breaks or takes a bend.
3) In the third test, I insure sharpness by cutting 100 pieces of 3/4" manila rope. Then I give it a light stropping to bring it back to shaving hair. This guarantees the edge is the correct hardness and the convexed edge and edge geometry are correct.
4) The fourth test is chopping/prying into pine knots to guarantee the edge will not chip, flex or deform in any way. This also is the 2nd test insuring the hardening and edge are correct.
5) Finally, I take cabinet grade plywood and stab the point into it. Then I pry the knife sharply and forcefully to both sides to guarantee the point will not break off. This is my assurance that the normalization, hardening, and the bevel/edge grind are correct.
IF THE KNIFE FAILS ANY OF THESE TESTS, I THROW IT OUT AND START OVER!
The cords I use on the handles are custom-made 1/8" hollow braided and solid braided polypropylene cord. I soak the cord in superglue to attach to the handle. This gives a fairly sharp texture to the handle that insures your grip will not slip and is basically indestructible.
Most customers want various sheaths, so I concentrate on the knives and leave the sheaths to someone else who can accommodate the customer’s desires.
I stand by my work. If there is ever a problem with one of my knives, let me know and I will make it right!